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She continues: It questions easy readings of and loyalties to race, gender, sexuality, class, and nation, clothes-wearing men and women what [Ik] Ud calls a luxurious deliberation of intelligence in the face of boundaries, and I love that phrase, especially in relationship to Andre Leon Talley. The phenomenon changed in the 1920s as the Harlem Renaissance took root and some Black mens version of dandyism took on more rebellious undertones